Maiduguri- The Northern Belle

My trip to Maiduguri, Borno State in the North East of Nigeria has to be one of my most memorable trips. My excitement was partly because it is the farthest I have traveled locally- just look at the Nigerian map and see where Lagos and Borno States are located. It was also my first chance to experience the authentic northern culture- I simply have a thing for the north, can't explain it.

I attended a Kanuri wedding. The Kanuri ethnics live largely in the former Kanem and Bornu empires in Nigeria, Cameroun and Niger. Considering Borno State is constantly in both local and international news for crimes committed by boko haram and the destruction and displacements left in its wake- I was more than aware that this wasn't just another trip. You see, the humanitarian part of me wanted to connect with the people whose lives and livelihoods had been snatched and also wanted to engage the skilled/craft workers amongst them to work with my brand so they can gradually depart the welfare and donation cycle to a financially independent one. A percentage of the sales proceeds for work made by IDPs will be reinvested in their businesses.

I was spending just three full days, including day of arrival and departure- two days set aside for the actually wedding ceremonies, I wanted to visit one IDP camp, crafts village, market, sight see, indulge in the traditional beauty routine etc- hehe!. Aside my friend and her family, I had connected with a couple of people on ground before my arrival. It was mixed feelings, pleasantly surprised by Maiduguri town and in the same breath, sad for the IDPs. Here you go-:

Welcome to Maiduguri. No signs of conflict, just a regular state capital with the ubiquitous keke napep/marwa

Looks like this roundabout had the names of the local governments in Borno all around it...I saw Maiduguri, didn't spot Chibok or Bama though

The Shehu of Borno's palace

I was told this woman right here is over a 100 years old, very energetic and friendly. She managed a few English words and bought me sand roasted pea nuts-best pea nuts. She also performed one of the bridal ceremonial rites.

Look closely towards the middle- do you see that large tray of food? Yeah, everyone eats together like that, no particular need for cutlery, just stick your hand in

I still can't get over this henna design, absolutely stunning. That's the bride's foot, just in case you are wondering. I got my henna, halawa (sugar waxing) and had to let go the kurkum (turmeric scrub). However, I got some of the turmeric scrub for my face- used it once- and I think my face glows already!

That's the mama from above washing the bride's foot as part of the wakan amariya rites. After this, the bride is carried on the backs of the aunties, one after the other, dancing around 

 

I somehow made it to the crafts market, missed out on the final ceremonial rights. It was time well spent meeting the local workers and asking general questions about their work process etc That's a zani he's holding- the traditional hausa wrapper typically worn with a crop top of similar design. I'm making some soft furnishing out of the wrappers I got.

Gorgeous pouffes available in a variety of colours and designs, all locally handcrafted.  Got a brief talk on the design process, something I'm looking forward to learning in future

This was during  the IDP camp visit-sad. I found the craft workers, but will need to go through the process to engage them. I really don't know how long that will take,so  I'm just seeking alternative ways of working with them without the horrendous bureaucracy involved with typical government activities  

I can't even write about my entire experience at the camp, what I saw were people like you and me who had been driven from their homes and were happy for their work to be paid for....I discretely took this picture from the car, I was quite careful not to appear insensitive to their plight- I'm not sure they cared anyway....

 

She's displaced as well, but lucky to have family take her in- so she's able to work, earn some money, and keep her smile