Maiduguri- The Northern Belle

My trip to Maiduguri, Borno State in the North East of Nigeria has to be one of my most memorable trips. My excitement was partly because it is the farthest I have traveled locally- just look at the Nigerian map and see where Lagos and Borno States are located. It was also my first chance to experience the authentic northern culture- I simply have a thing for the north, can't explain it.

I attended a Kanuri wedding. The Kanuri ethnics live largely in the former Kanem and Bornu empires in Nigeria, Cameroun and Niger. Considering Borno State is constantly in both local and international news for crimes committed by boko haram and the destruction and displacements left in its wake- I was more than aware that this wasn't just another trip. You see, the humanitarian part of me wanted to connect with the people whose lives and livelihoods had been snatched and also wanted to engage the skilled/craft workers amongst them to work with my brand so they can gradually depart the welfare and donation cycle to a financially independent one. A percentage of the sales proceeds for work made by IDPs will be reinvested in their businesses.

I was spending just three full days, including day of arrival and departure- two days set aside for the actually wedding ceremonies, I wanted to visit one IDP camp, crafts village, market, sight see, indulge in the traditional beauty routine etc- hehe!. Aside my friend and her family, I had connected with a couple of people on ground before my arrival. It was mixed feelings, pleasantly surprised by Maiduguri town and in the same breath, sad for the IDPs. Here you go-:

Welcome to Maiduguri. No signs of conflict, just a regular state capital with the ubiquitous keke napep/marwa

Looks like this roundabout had the names of the local governments in Borno all around it...I saw Maiduguri, didn't spot Chibok or Bama though

The Shehu of Borno's palace

I was told this woman right here is over a 100 years old, very energetic and friendly. She managed a few English words and bought me sand roasted pea nuts-best pea nuts. She also performed one of the bridal ceremonial rites.

Look closely towards the middle- do you see that large tray of food? Yeah, everyone eats together like that, no particular need for cutlery, just stick your hand in

I still can't get over this henna design, absolutely stunning. That's the bride's foot, just in case you are wondering. I got my henna, halawa (sugar waxing) and had to let go the kurkum (turmeric scrub). However, I got some of the turmeric scrub for my face- used it once- and I think my face glows already!

That's the mama from above washing the bride's foot as part of the wakan amariya rites. After this, the bride is carried on the backs of the aunties, one after the other, dancing around 

 

I somehow made it to the crafts market, missed out on the final ceremonial rights. It was time well spent meeting the local workers and asking general questions about their work process etc That's a zani he's holding- the traditional hausa wrapper typically worn with a crop top of similar design. I'm making some soft furnishing out of the wrappers I got.

Gorgeous pouffes available in a variety of colours and designs, all locally handcrafted.  Got a brief talk on the design process, something I'm looking forward to learning in future

This was during  the IDP camp visit-sad. I found the craft workers, but will need to go through the process to engage them. I really don't know how long that will take,so  I'm just seeking alternative ways of working with them without the horrendous bureaucracy involved with typical government activities  

I can't even write about my entire experience at the camp, what I saw were people like you and me who had been driven from their homes and were happy for their work to be paid for....I discretely took this picture from the car, I was quite careful not to appear insensitive to their plight- I'm not sure they cared anyway....

 

She's displaced as well, but lucky to have family take her in- so she's able to work, earn some money, and keep her smile

Bida Brass

A couple of months ago, I went on a road trip to Minna, Niger State, in the North Central of Nigeria. In between breaks during my two week programme held on the premises of the New Horizon School, I made my way to Bida- home to the Nupe tribe, the second largest city in Niger State with enormous brass (copper+zinc) deposit. My friend and travel mate was gracious enough to accompany me on this bumpy trip- and I mean that literally. If all you know and have experienced about Nigeria is Lagos, I encourage you to plan at least one road trip from Lagos to the middle belt and beyond. The landscape is breath taking, from the lush expansive greenery to the scenic hills and mountain tops, and oh! the road side farm produce and street food has to be one of my favorite things to look forward to. I digress-back to Bida, in search of indigenous craftsmen, after a few inquiries, one inaccurate lead to the sought location, and an extended but rather refreshing and breezy bike ride, we made it to Gbongbofu. Below are images of some of the brass, aluminum, and brass-copper mix of works produced on site. We are excited to engage selected craftsmen met on the trip to produce a range of works for our brand- yay to the locals!

Welcome to Minna!

It's common place to see young ladies selling masa by the road side. Masa is eaten as a snack or proper meal.

This area of the massive compound of the New Horizon school faces the entrance to the girls dormitory. The sign is an everyday reminder for them to be authentic- so apt.

Entrance to Bida motor park

A worker carefully designing the ladle

This kettle is simply stunning, they are used for ceremonial purposes but hey your space can accommodate it too.

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Love this decorative tea set. Can you spot the kajal/eyeliner holder by the left? My grandma used to have one of those back in the days

These are hair liners but I have more use for them than just parting hair. You can have a collection of these in a vase, they really stand out.

These will come in handy as a storage solution and will add an element of tribal glam to your space

Abuja

Abuja is a complete contrast to manic Lagos. My last trip to the rock city felt like it was my first- it could easily have passed as a holiday to the west coast. Lagos had me completely beat up that Abuja was to me what an ashram is to a Hindu.

The views, the wide roads, some level of sanity and it's hidden idyllic spots. Reconnecting with amazing friends, Mo, Emma, Es, Martin, and meeting Roselind was just the perfect time out I craved. My best moment though was having a girly conversation whilst tucking into the perfectly grilled, succulent, seasoned fresh cat fish, stuffed with carrots, potatoes, peas, chili and ginger...just the thought of that fish...

If you are ever in Abuja, depending on how much time you have, stop by at one or all of these places:-

Millennium park- this was my first stop from the airport. Impressive that the park is still well maintained, You'll have the best time if visiting during the off peak period i.e week days- there's less human traffic. I snoozed off on the lush grass with birds chirping above on that breezy, sunny Thursday.

Spice Platter (restaurant) and Thought Pyramid (art gallery)- imagine your two besties food and art are neighbours... Off the major road, making the outdoor sitting area even more relaxing. The food was good, ambiance was great, so was the customer service. It's just so convenient that you are able to appreciate some contemporary African art before or after dinner and probably have a nice walk around the quiet neighbourhood too.

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Bwari pottery village- this gave me the buzz. That cat fish eating moment above took place right here. Bwari is a short ride away from Abuja city and is beside the Abuja law school. Now, all I remember is nature, lovely hand crafted pottery, shea soap, shea butter and the cat fish...you've got to experience it.

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Locally hand made shea butter soap

Wonderland- I was just tagging along on a kiddies day out, so really had no expectations- but guess what- nice surprise this one was. Nested between the many Abuja rocks, this theme park is great for a family or lone day out. Quite a number of exciting rides, and it's reasonably cheap too. Beware though, the ice cream from the first food kiosk by the entrance is naff.

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Growth

 Nothing as liberating as this manner of growth...totally agree with the quote
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Any kind of bird...

Unlike last week, this week has truly come to an end. Last week was 7 full-on days with no week-end in sight. So I'm sitting here wondering how my life wish list changed from being married at 27 with 5 kids to aimlessly roaming the earth....like a pied wheatear...This small bird migrates between 3 continents-from the extreme southeast of Europe to China,India and northeastern Africa. So I'm taking this moment to be a bird, any kind of bird...whose only reason of being is to soar and fly...

#tomorrow Robins will sing#
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Laughter

The other day, Funmi- mother to Leo walked in looking smashing in her hot pink knee length dress and navy blue blazer. You see, Funmi's laughter, just like Tosin's is contagious- I laugh when these two laugh. The latter reminds of Muttley from Wacky Races. As their laughter brings deep tickles to my soul, I hope these lift your spirits to unimaginable heights...

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Lagos on my shoulders

This funky Lagos stamped tote bag is so cool and handy- gat to love it- literally Lagos my shoulders

From Vume Village with Love

I have always found road trips more fascinating and somewhat more adventurous than any other form of transportation. Of course putting into consideration the purpose of travel and length of time, they may not always be ideal. Albeit having no experience of sea travel- I find that choosing between air, rail and road- the road most certainly leaves me on a permanent high. From experience, my road sojourns have afforded me first class introductions and welcomes to cities, villages and settlements I otherwise wouldn’t have discovered.



 My fascination however isn’t so much with the cities, after all, most major cities of the world have certain things in common- the sky scrapers, traffic, posh restaurants, technological advancement to mention a few. On the other hand, villages and settlements retain the culture, history and tradition that is otherwise lost to the urban dweller. Not forgetting their key but often overlooked contribution to economic development either through local farming, crafts or other forms of trade and production.

The most memorable sight travelling by road in this part of the world is the sheer assortment of local road side delicacies, they certainly do play tricks on the salivary glands. For those brief moments when access to emails and mobile phone signals dare to be unavailable, you do realize that life actually goes on.

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When I had an impromptu offer to travel from Nigeria to Ghana by road, I knew there was no way I was passing this opportunity. A first time visitor to the west coast, I had no expectations but looked forward to the trip especially the notorious border immigration. With the sole purpose of escaping "Eko Wenjele" for a few days, I was good to go! The trip on the other hand for my co traveler was an opportunity to visit family and buy decorative clay pots for re sale.  Being an art enthusiast and interior decorator with a bias for tribal and ethnic influences, I knew this trip would present more inspiration for my design work.

Vume is a small village near Sogakope, some 163km from Accra. Large tracts of clay in the village have encouraged the commercial production of ceramic vases and pots which have helped the pottery industry in the area to develop. The drive from the Togo-Ghana border of Aflao into Accra gave us the opportunity to pass through Vume. On the road side were colourful display of hand crafted vases and pots, all in different sizes and shapes. I like to think of them as elegant, each with it's own distinct personality. A closer inspection of the pots highlights an intricate and delicate design scheme- some made with shells and cowries. It certainly did remind me of the pot making video during my British museum trip.

Not content with mere admiration, I wanted to see a live display of the actual pot making process. John, the owner's son who is still in secondary school was kind enough to explain and show the steps involved. One thing came to mind, identifying one's creative streak is empowering, getting through formal education or vocational training to improve these skills is a foot in the door, displaying your finished product/service is certainly an achievement.

With pride, John finished making the mini pot in less than 15mins, I was certainly impressed. John may only be a teenager and is yet to fully understand the gifts of education and creative awakening his parents have handed him early in life- this very brief and profound experience reminds that creativity is not a chance occurrence, it is inherent in everyone in varying doses. You only need dig a little bit to identify and embrace your true gift.

Local Love: Nigeria at It's Best

With over 250 ethnic tribes, picturesque hills and mountains, mangrove forests, waterfalls, rivers Niger and Benue, and even the Atlantic Ocean, there are endless and untapped inspiration and ideas in Nigeria for your home design/makeover projects. From simple accent pieces, to the more exquisite paintings and crafts, your choices are endless. Back from our 'Arabian bliss', get back on board as we explore some of the most fabulous and stunning prints, patterns, paintings, and crafts that will transform your space into your ‘luxury land’.

Local and versatile fabrics such as ankara, adire(batik), aso oke, akwete and kura fabrics can be introduced into your design scheme in imaginative and unusual ways. These ubiquitous fabrics come in a range of tones, patterns, textures and best of all, you can even choose your own prints designed or hand woven to specification. Depending on your design approach, start with a base colour e.g. brown or whatever you have on ground as furniture, pick out the most elaborate of prints as shown in the images. You can use the fabrics as throw pillow covers, lamp shades, and curtains. These fabrics instantly transform the dullest of spaces, injecting energy and life into it. Try it! you’ll be transfixed beyond measures.

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Leather carpets, poufs and decorative hides add an extra dimension to your design. Usually made out of cow, goat or sheep skin or a combination of all, the various shades of the animal skin introduce a delicate but sleek texture into the scheme. Visit your local art and craft markets for a variety of leather works with fantastic deals.

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If you'd rather not go the animal way, the alternatives are these detailed and intricately hand woven raffia and cane products. Rafia, a very versatile material can also be used to produce other items and home accessories like living room furniture, laundry and storage baskets,  place mats and even baby cribs. All these items can be made to desired shapes and sizes. Check out ‘underbridge’ in Maryland, Lagos for an array of designs.

With a natural landscape that captivates the senses whilst stretching into the horizon, the ever fast paced cities and towns, and the more laid back and serene villages with ‘mother earth gradients of soil’, local paintings and photography gives your attempt at design a seal of approval. Although original paintings can be quite pricey, don’t be discouraged- look for a street artist, and negotiate a good deal -they are everywhere. You can get professional photographs of your best spots, have them boarded and framed and create a focal point by grouping them and creating a larger frame.

 






For the kids area, indulge them in a painting and drawing session. Have the finished works professionally framed just like the ones the kids produced for the United for Kids art auction.

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Locally handcrafted ceramics, glass works and calabashes are delicate and versatile statement pieces that will pull your scheme together and certify you as an authentic ethnic wiz. Although the ceramics are most common in the traditional red-earth tone, they can be designed in various shapes and sizes. These can be used for potted plants, centre pieces or just as a shelve display. In more traditional homes, they are used around the kitchen for cooking, eating and storing water.

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Intricate wood carvings can be used to make statement furniture pieces like a coffee table or bookcase. These select and unique pieces have such detailed carvings that are imposing and distinctive- you can be assured there aren’t many of them out there.

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